Monday, May 07, 2012
Savage Gulf - South Cumberland State Park
Taking the north-eastern approach to the park, we arrived at
the Stone Door Ranger Station before noon on Saturday and by 1215 had stepped
off on our Savage Gulf adventure. Within
minutes of the trail-head we were nearing the sheer cliffs that make up the rim
of Big Creek river gorge. The views were
spectacular from the bevy of overlooks facing south. We encountered rappellers at these initial
overlook sites.
From the rocky overlooks we proceeded to the Stone Door,
a 10-foot wide, 100-foot deep crevice that descends from the crest of the cliff
to a rock shelf below; a natural wonder, worth the trip alone. Rappellers were
using the Stone Door steps to ascend for another drop as we descended to start
our hike. Rounding the edge of the
shelf we encounter a group of rock climbers with a climber on belay who was stuck
to the rock face like a Spiderman in training.
The Big Creek Gulf Trail begins with a shale strewn
descent into the gouge. The rains earlier in the day had left the stone
slippery, keeping us ever vigilant of our footing.
Being overconfident, I found myself on my butt early on the trek,
forcing me to keep my eyes glued to the stone path, negating my enjoyment of the
terrain. Using a series of broad
switchbacks the trail descends 700 vertical feet to the Big Creek river
bottom over the course of a mile.
The hike took use on a cross compartment journey
modulating from root strewn paths to stone laden trails. We paralleled the dry,
boulder laced, river bed for several miles.
At the junction of the Ranger Creek Falls trail, I dropped my pack, ate
lunch, rehydrated and took a short nap, as my two hiking companions ventured up
the dry stream bed and over the boulder fields to Ranger Falls. They replenished our water supply at the
falls and we were back on our way in about an hour.
From the trail fork the path climbs rapidly away from the
river bottom 250-vertical feet to a large triangle shaped rock approximately 25
to 30 feet at it’s apex, then the trail dropped back to the dry riverbed and a
sinkhole where in the wet months cradles a pool suitable for foot soaking. From this point on, the hike become a job as
you ascend out of the river bottom and up the face of the gorge. At the onset the climb is gradual, but
becomes steeper and steeper as you progress.
Once you see a series of erosion prevention steps dug into the
mountainside, just drop your head and count your steps until you reach the
summit. The last half mile is a killer,
no switchbacks, just straight up hill.
We made it the Alum Gap campsite with daylight left to
burn. After establishing camp, we
collected firewood, and settled in. My
camping mates entertained me with their high tech camping gadgets, from solar
panel cell phone charges, to super quick water heaters.
We slept in Sunday morning and got a late start for
Greeter Falls. Leaving the campsite we hiked west on the Greeter
trail. We rapidly came upon a series of
overlooks before the trail took a northwesterly bend. About a mile into the hike we crossed a
swinging bridge over a small waterfall, then climbed up onto the escarpment
and on to the entrance to the falls. Here
we descended several hundred feet over trails, steps, bridges and a spiral
staircase to the base of the waterfall. Greeter
Falls was nice but the swimming hole was spectacular.
Clear, clean, and cold, the pool at Greeter Falls was the highlight of the day. We took turns filtering water to replenish our supplies and wadding in the pool and tributaries. The youngest and boldest of our group stripped to his skivvies and took a swim under the falls.
After return to Alum Gap we ate, broke camp, and headed out Laurel trail. The trail was relatively level and void of notable scenery. After arriving back at the ranger station, I packed up and headed back to Memphis, while my compadres reloaded to hike Savage Gulf Trail.
Highlights: The Stone Door and Greeter Falls.
Route: 11.5-miles.
